Expert Review

Peroni is built like a warm-climate German pilsner, from the noble hops, light cooked-corn malt, and, yes, slight skunkiness of the nose, to the palate, which starts out with light-bodied malt and bitterness that starts crisp and grows increasingly focused. Here, however, the light body is hard-pressed to take the edge off the hops, and there’s a harshness that can register as astringent or metallic.