The quest is for fresher and drier here, as with many contemporary producers. Kirsch, leather, pine and a waft of dried mushroom to tatami straw. This has a mid-weighted feel and is refreshingly savory, yet without, perhaps, the density, sap and prerequisite freshness of top examples. Some oseleta here, serving as a bulwark against the encroaching heat. I'd like to see this in a few more years when my score may come up a notch. Drink or hold.